Woke up at 12:40am… saw that Sara needed more cover and placed my long sarong towel over her. Felt like a mother tucking in a child. Then decided to go out to the kitchen area and write my blog - took my sleeping bag for warmth - finished at 4:30am.

Went back to sleep until Hamish woke me up at 6:15am

The Italians got up at the same time and told us that there was a café open from 6:30am.

We decided to have breakfast before we left…this meant a late start, as service was very slow because the place was packed with pilgrims…and we didn’t get going until 7:45am.

However it was a very good decision because the first stopping place is after 8.5k…and it was raining

Over breakfast the English/Aussie couple (Adam/Bronwyn) told us their crazy story of yesterday, where they arrived in wrong town. They thought they had booked in Castroverde which is 7k further along, beyond Càdavo. Realising their mistake, they decided to just get a taxi back to their booked hostel here in Càdavo, but once they reached it, they found that the hostel had been double booked! However they were lucky and were given nice staff quarters in the attic…but the adventure didn’t end there… they then got stuck in the tiny old lift down from the attic! Bronwyn had a wee attack of claustrophobia too.

Camino stories.

Today will be a long walk around 34k.

A long uphill to start the day, but then a gentle meander up and down after that, on nice terrain.

Bird sounds were particularly tuneful and there were many songs that we did not recognise…one particularly interesting and cheerful one we thought might be a starling…

Castroverde is a fairly big town and apparently there is no café now between Castroverde and Lugo, so we stopped to pick up fruit and nut supplies, as well as for another coffee and tortilla.

Left Castroverde at 10am.

A very opportune rest area appeared after some hours, with a place call El Oasis - here was a chance to pick up another “sello” (pilgrim stamp for the passport) and sit in a pleasant outdoor area with free watermelon, peaches and coffee served on a donativo basis.

Of course we gave generously as it was so welcome.

My right knee has started to get really quite sore on the way into Lugo and we had a last minute downpour of rain on our climb into the city.

Lugo is BEAUTIFUL. It has a similar feel to Santiago with its gorgeous Cathedral and winding backstreets. It also has a huge and intact 2.7k length of city walls which you can walk around. Really special to see the gorgeous buildings and lived-in spaces on the inside as well as the outside of the walls. It is bustling with people of all ages: jogging, walking their dogs, or just strolling like us (although strolling doesn’t really describe us accurately… more like hobbling in my case)

We discovered a lovely menu del dia in a backstreet inside the walls, which had a very family atmosphere. The caldo gallego was brought out in a tureen and the marinaded pork on the bone was melt in the mouth. And obviously the wine was delicious.

We were delighted to bump into the Italians just around the corner and had a drink with them. So much hilarity.

Then we walked around the walls to digest…and because it was such a gorgeous evening, we sat in the square by the cathedral with a gin and tonic and glass of wine before heading back to the hostel.

The Lugo hostel was a wonderful albergue run by nuns.

So clean and well thought out…with lovely touches everywhere. Our first proper towel (as we have lightweight, quick-drying sarongs for towels).

Lots of plugs. Little buckets for phones, etc by the bed.

We had the only two single beds in a room full of bunks, which only added to the feeling of luxury.

Total distance 34.1k

Total height gain 612m

Total height loss 877m